Memento Mole

Ceramic vessels for ‘Memento Mole’, with built in altar by Andreas Sjöblom, Etnografiska Museum 2024

‘Memento Mole’, an installation that includes ceramics, textiles, food, and sound, exploring the power of food as a medium for storytelling and community building.

Mole, featured in Memento Mole, is a traditional Mexican dish, more specifically a sauce, with origins dating back to pre-Hispanic times. It´s deeply intertwined with Mexican identity. Its name originates from the Náhuatl language, ‘molli’ or ‘mulli’, meaning ‘to grind’. Initially, ‘mulli’ was a sauce prepared by grinding chilies and condiments, used in ceremonies honoring pre-Hispanic gods. Over time, the recipe evolved and adapted, incorporating ingredients brought to the country by the Spanish colonizers. Mothers learned how to prepare it from their ancestors and passed down their knowledge to the next generation, creating a connection between them and their predecessors. At one point, a mole could have up to 100 ingredients. Today, there are at least 50 varieties across the country, with the most well-known being black, green, red, and coloradito. Some recipes use at least 22 ingredients, and it is common for each family to have its own secret recipe.

Mole has become a symbol of shared experiences, evolving traditions, and the enduring legacy of ancestral knowledge. Its complexity challenges the idea of cultural reductionism.

In the ‘Memento Mole’ sound piece, 12 women recite the instructions to make mole. Each of them with their own versions in their own accents from their own backgrounds. By listening closely, you can get glimpse into the personalities, lives, and personal stories. A recited recipe is always ambiguous; it’s impossible to ask these women: How much is ‘un poquito’ (a little bit)? or What does ‘meneale hasta que quede’ (move it until it’s ready) mean? This ambiguity allows for interpretation and an opportunity to add a piece of ourselves to our own mole recipes.

Ceramic vessels for ‘Memento Mole’, an installation created in collaboration with Yanina Casanova for Etnografiska’s Women’s Day celebration.

Thank you to the women who shared their mole recipes with us:
Voices:
Yanina Casanova
Sebastiana Elotl
Gisela Flores
Saydee González
Juana Hernández
Edith Pérez Sanchez
Cecilia Pérez Sanchez
Lourdes Ramírez
Oliva Ramírez
Patricia Soto